How to make a concrete sticker or Brick Sticker aka Brickers

I used to call my brick stickers Brickers, but I thought it was too corny. Here I am again working on this concept and it is as if the previous stuff I did does not apply. I think I need to backtrack on my previous work, but if I just add the new products I am working with together without referencing the old work, then I may come up with a new solution to the problems that I faced when I stopped working on the old project. If I remember correctly the problem was that the brickers were boring unless you decorated or drew on them. Also it didn't make sense to have one brick as a sticker since one brick fails to make a pattern or the effect that bricks are known for. I did stick on bricker on a highway post and it is still there, no worse for wear.

Now my concept is to actually make a concrete sticker that has a purpose, which is to adhere a protective surface to my shingle house structures and with concrete being the most resistant product that I can find to weathering. Vinyl sticker paper seems to have the most dimensional stability, but making the two work together may be difficult, because nothing wants to stick to the vinyl. Still dimensional stability is the secret to everything. If things don't move against each other then they will stay together, but if materials change shape, expand and contract at different rates as the temperature or conditions change then that will create space in between the materials. Any space will allow for moisture and then moisture will expand and contract inside of the items thereby increasing any existing differences in the shape or space between items. This is the science of decay and these are the forces that bring giant boulders to the bottoms of mountains, piece by piece as they are fractured over thousands of years of weather. Had these boulders been coated properly, then they would still ride high above it all, but it just doesn't happen that way.

So by sealing a surface with a good sticker, or bricker, the subsurface is protected from weathering and such, but the sticker has to be adhered in such a way that no water can seep in and break it away from the subsurface. Assuming the subsurface structures are insulating each other by keeping the heat and cold from coming in between them, then their bond should last much longer than if there was not protective layer covering them. Vinyl stickers do peel and release from their subsurface, but I think that is because they are directly exposed to the sunlight and not covered themselves by a protective layer like cement. This is also why a bricker made with epoxy won't work as well, because the epoxy would conduct the heat into the sticker, whereas, a cement coating should insulate the bottom from the heat or reflect the heat since it has is harder to conduct heat through the cement. How much heat and for how long can a vinyl sticker last? Not sure, but if the space in between the sticker and the subsurface is kept like a vacuum then it should last until the exterior decays or the interior rots away.

My prior experiments had me printing to make the bricker and or applying adhesives to the back of thinly printed bricks using a mixture of plaster and acrylic known as Forton MG. Now that I think about it the reason that I may have stopped using the Forton gypsum based mixture is that I realized that it would not survive outside unless it was coated because any plaster and gypsum mixture is still subject to absorption of water and decomposing faster than materials that resist water to begin with or that can be saturated and won't break down. Plaster based materials just aren't good for exterior use and if you have to coat them with thick sealants there is still the risk of penetration by the elements and the sealants will eventually break down on the top surface. Now I am trying to make the top surface, the cement surface, the most resistant surface to the elements with or without an additional coating.